Climbing The Moai - Tasman Peninsular
Headed down the Tasman Peninsular this weekend with a crew of happy campers - including a select few ready and itching to climb one of the craziest landforms in Tassie.
The Moai - a sea stack, dwarfed only by it's two neighbours The Totem Pole, and The Candlestick - was our target for the weekend. Heading off from the Fortescue Bay campgrounds at 8:30am it took us under 2 hours to get to the top of the descent. Both Canoe Bay and Bivouac Bay on the way in were spectacular areas, and the campgrounds at Bivouac Bay certainly warranting a revisit and at least one nights stay.
It took us about 45 minutes to get down the three abseil legs down to sea level, where we had a bit of a rest and got ready to attack the sea stack. Our intention for the day - to climb "Sacred Site" a grade 18 climb with some bolts and some natural gear. The other climbs on The Moai are Blunt Instrument/Burning Spear a 2 pitch grade 20/22 on the south west arete, and the Ancient Astronaut a grade 24 - a fully bolted climb all the way to the pinnacle.
The short version - we climbed the first pitch to the belay point. I then embarked on the main 25m pitch to the top. This was without a doubt the scariest thing I have done in my life. Sun drenched, 30-40 knots of wind gusts and the occasional spraying of sea spray.... Sizing up the first majorly exposed move, the adrenalin pumping, I just really didn't think I'd have the balls to pull it off. After one or two half assed attempts I boldly went were none of us had gone before and clipped in that first bolt... THANK CHRIST!!
There were several other hairy spots where the wind gusts just weren't agreeing with my tiring arms, nerves and patience. But true to form I finally reached the top and screamed with unbridled joy - my first ever onsite lead of a sea stack - not to mention the natural gear... truly mind blowing. After securing myself at the top, I stood, shaking with the realisation that I had just conquered The Moai.
With the winds increasing, Tim belayed Craig back down and then climbed up after me, cleaning the route. The little bastard was finished in about 10 minutes where I swear it took me at least 3/4 of an hour for that pitch. We did our dance of joy on the summit and then abseiled back down. It then took us the best part of 4 hours to climb out (including hoisting our gear up each of the 3 climbs) and walk back to the camp site.
All I can say is thank god I bought a full carton of beer, coz that first one went down so quickly I swear it didn't touch the sides.
The next big mission: The seaside cliffs at Mt Brown - Paradiso and the Parrot Shelf Cliffs. But I reckon I'll be getting some Coles Bay climbing in over Christmas/New Years before that happens!
And the moment you've all been waiting for - here's the pictorial essay.
The wrecked dredger lying in Canoe Bay
Bivouac Bay - only a short hike up the headland to go
The view from the cliff top above
Timbo on one of the three abseils down
Craggles on his way too
Some scale into things.... it's not as small as you might think!
Me being a twat in all my regalia - ready to attack anything
The fully bolted 'Ancient Astronaut' - grade 24
The view back over to Cape Huay and The Candlestick (110m, grade 16)
Craig doing the cleaning run up the first pitch
Timbo heading up the wall
Craig, Timmy and myself just glad to be in the outdoors - soaking up some sun, sea spray and an awful sea breeze (HUH!, breeze... more like a gale!!)
Timmy just standing around
Craggles secured on the belay ledge
Sizing up the first really bold move
Preparing to disappear around the arete and out of sight
Thank the lord! Timmy and I signaling our victory!
"I'm the king of the world!!"
Abseiling back down
The Moai - a sea stack, dwarfed only by it's two neighbours The Totem Pole, and The Candlestick - was our target for the weekend. Heading off from the Fortescue Bay campgrounds at 8:30am it took us under 2 hours to get to the top of the descent. Both Canoe Bay and Bivouac Bay on the way in were spectacular areas, and the campgrounds at Bivouac Bay certainly warranting a revisit and at least one nights stay.
It took us about 45 minutes to get down the three abseil legs down to sea level, where we had a bit of a rest and got ready to attack the sea stack. Our intention for the day - to climb "Sacred Site" a grade 18 climb with some bolts and some natural gear. The other climbs on The Moai are Blunt Instrument/Burning Spear a 2 pitch grade 20/22 on the south west arete, and the Ancient Astronaut a grade 24 - a fully bolted climb all the way to the pinnacle.
The short version - we climbed the first pitch to the belay point. I then embarked on the main 25m pitch to the top. This was without a doubt the scariest thing I have done in my life. Sun drenched, 30-40 knots of wind gusts and the occasional spraying of sea spray.... Sizing up the first majorly exposed move, the adrenalin pumping, I just really didn't think I'd have the balls to pull it off. After one or two half assed attempts I boldly went were none of us had gone before and clipped in that first bolt... THANK CHRIST!!
There were several other hairy spots where the wind gusts just weren't agreeing with my tiring arms, nerves and patience. But true to form I finally reached the top and screamed with unbridled joy - my first ever onsite lead of a sea stack - not to mention the natural gear... truly mind blowing. After securing myself at the top, I stood, shaking with the realisation that I had just conquered The Moai.
With the winds increasing, Tim belayed Craig back down and then climbed up after me, cleaning the route. The little bastard was finished in about 10 minutes where I swear it took me at least 3/4 of an hour for that pitch. We did our dance of joy on the summit and then abseiled back down. It then took us the best part of 4 hours to climb out (including hoisting our gear up each of the 3 climbs) and walk back to the camp site.
All I can say is thank god I bought a full carton of beer, coz that first one went down so quickly I swear it didn't touch the sides.
The next big mission: The seaside cliffs at Mt Brown - Paradiso and the Parrot Shelf Cliffs. But I reckon I'll be getting some Coles Bay climbing in over Christmas/New Years before that happens!
And the moment you've all been waiting for - here's the pictorial essay.
The wrecked dredger lying in Canoe Bay
Bivouac Bay - only a short hike up the headland to go
The view from the cliff top above
Timbo on one of the three abseils down
Craggles on his way too
Some scale into things.... it's not as small as you might think!
Me being a twat in all my regalia - ready to attack anything
The fully bolted 'Ancient Astronaut' - grade 24
The view back over to Cape Huay and The Candlestick (110m, grade 16)
Craig doing the cleaning run up the first pitch
Timbo heading up the wall
Craig, Timmy and myself just glad to be in the outdoors - soaking up some sun, sea spray and an awful sea breeze (HUH!, breeze... more like a gale!!)
Timmy just standing around
Craggles secured on the belay ledge
Sizing up the first really bold move
Preparing to disappear around the arete and out of sight
Thank the lord! Timmy and I signaling our victory!
"I'm the king of the world!!"
Abseiling back down
posted by Yoda at 15:52
2 Comments:
Youz are nuts!.
hehe - yeah and we still have them intact which is the best bit!!
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